In a major shift within the fashion industry, Saint Laurent has officially announced that Anthony Vaccarello will depart from his role as creative director after nearly a decade. This news, which had been circulating for almost a year, was confirmed on October 9, marking the end of an era for the storied French fashion house.
The Legacy of Anthony Vaccarello
During his tenure, Vaccarello successfully established strong relationships with a host of high-profile icons, including Zoë Kravitz, Hailey Bieber, and Blackpink’s Rosé. His designs consistently drew attention on the red carpet, and just this week, actor Alexander Skarsgård flaunted one of Vaccarello’s signature gold suits fresh off the runway. Despite the upcoming transition, Vaccarello remains committed to designing Kravitz’s wedding gown for her union with Harry Styles, albeit without the Saint Laurent branding.
Fashion Successes and Challenges
Known for his innovative approach, Vaccarello has created trends that redefined modern fashion, from androgynous tuxedos to show-stopping punk ballgowns. In 2023, Saint Laurent’s sales reached an impressive $3.3 billion; however, the subsequent years revealed a troubling trend as sales dropped by 9 percent in 2024 and another 6 percent in 2025, primarily due to waning demand in Asia and a general disinterest in Vaccarello’s rock ’n’ roll aesthetic.
Internal Conflicts and Market Dynamics
While declining revenue was a significant factor, the underlying issues at Saint Laurent likely played a crucial role in Vaccarello’s exit. Strained relationships within the brand notably stood out, particularly between Vaccarello and CEO Cédric Charbit. With Charbit’s background at Balenciaga, he was eager for Vaccarello to replicate the commercial success seen there with popular sneakers and bags. Unfortunately, Vaccarello’s commitment to extravagant designs, such as the $4,200 Plexiglass shoes, set the stage for fundamental disagreements over the brand’s direction, as he resisted adapting to the industry’s shifting trends and the push for a more accessible fashion market.
The Search for a Successor
As the fashion world speculates on Vaccarello’s successor, Saint Laurent has indicated that an announcement will come soon. It is anticipated that the new creative director will be someone who not only aligns with Charbit’s vision but also has a proven ability to drive sales in an increasingly competitive market.
A Shifting Landscape in Fashion
The departure of Vaccarello follows a broader trend at Kering, the parent company of Saint Laurent, which has already seen leadership changes at Gucci, Balenciaga, and Bottega Veneta. With brands like Chanel and Celine thriving under new creative leadership, the industry emphasizes the importance of combining design talent with marketability. In this challenging environment, simply creating luxurious fashion pieces is no longer sufficient; designers must also prioritize profitability.
